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The patented flipstop easily sets the distance between the end of the board and the saw blade for amazing cutting accuracy and repeatability. The curved design of the flipstop allows a board to bypass the stop system by simply sliding the board into the s
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Technical Details
- - Quickly and accurately sets the distance between the end of the board and the saw blade- - Allows for amazing accuracy and repeatability when cutting boards to length
- - Uniquely designed curved face allows stop to swing out of the way when not in use
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By William B. Scarbor (tifon, ga.)
when you pay $27 for a stop block that doesn't always lock in squarely and it flexes, somethings wrong!
By John Borchard (West Newton, MA USA)
I also have found the flipstop to have play. You can tighten the nut, which decreases it, but then everything gets too tight for moving up and down. Expect more like .030 (1/32) if the stop is tight and .060 (1/16) if it is loose. I only use my production stop, the flipstop sits in its box. I am doing precision cuts - picture frame miters - and this would be far too much tolerance for me.
By S. Griffin (Victor, Idaho)
I'm very happy with my Kreg track and stop system. Setting up your miter saw with stop system is mandatory in my opinion. The old tape measure/pencil mark/chase the mark and make a cut method is such a waste of time I'm amazed when I see builders doing it. Need 8 cripples at 33"? Set the stop and chop as fast as you can. And they come out perfect.
I've use the Beismeyer stops for 10 years and they work well. But they are so proud of their little stop which looks like it was made in a garage they think it's worth over $100. For that price I instead bought 2 4' kreg tracks and the flip stop. It works every bit as well was easier to set up.
So my advice--do not buy a miter saw with out also building a table, fence and kreg stop system. Sure it will take a couple hours and add $100, but it will be worth it. I'd rather have a cheaper miter saw than omit having a stop system. Any time you use a tape measure, you are wasting time.
-Steve
My only minor complaint is the flip stop has a tiny bit of play in it. We're talking a tiny little hair of play-Maybe .015 inch. So I have tightened the nut down and made it a non-fliping stop for fine cabinetry. For a constuction site and most projects, the flip stop would be the way to go, but I should have purchased the "production stop" to get the highest precision.
By Steven L. Johnson
I recently built a Miter saw station and added a Kreg track to the top of my fence. I put the flipstop on the leftside (my most frequently used side) and the stop block on the rightside. Both flipstop and stop block work very well as a stop block. It is so easy to use with the tape measure to reduce your measuring pains. However, the flip stop has a 1/4" offset for the cursor. While the offset for the stop block is 3/8" for the cursor? Why? They should be the same.
So what I had to do is install the tape measure for the flipstop to the left of the blade and the tape measure for the stop block to the right of the blade. Now that I think about the issue, I should have sent the stop block back and put flipstops on both sides, oh well!
The stopblock also has some other issues (I would rate only a 2) the cursors are pieces of plastic that fit into a slot on each side of the block. It is a straight slot without a stop in it, so you have to be careful how you install the plastic pieces to make sure they have 3/8" out each side. The flip stop has an end of the channel that makes it impossible to put in with any different offset than the 1/4".
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